
Building a Salad TableTM:
Materials: (Finished dimensions - 33” wide X 58” long)
- Untreated, framing lumber:Two 2 X 4s, 10 ft. long and Two 2 X 4s, 12 ft. long
- 2 ½” galvanized deck screws
- 3/8” staples
- 1 lb. of 1 in. roofing nails
- 3 ft. X 5 ft. roll of aluminum window screening
- 3 ft. X 5 ft. roll of ½” mesh hardware cloth (This is a galvanized wire mesh that comes in a roll.)
| Tools |
Handsaw
|
Square |
| Hammer |
Tin snips |
| Drill |
Staple gun |
#2 Phillips
screw bits |
Leather gloves |
| Tape measure |
Safety Goggles
|
Directions
- Cut (2) 58 in. sections from a 10 ft. 2 X 4 (long sides)
- Cut (4) 30 in. sections from the other 10 ft. 2 X 4 (cross pieces)
- Cut (4) 32.5 in. sections from a 12 ft. 2 X 4 (inside support legs)
- Cut (4) 36 in. sections from the other 12 ft. 2 X 4 (outside legs)
- Attach the long sides (58 in.) to the cross pieces (30 in.) using the 2 ½ in. galvanized screws (2 screws/cross piece.) The two interior cross pieces are attached on center at 19 9/16 in. from from each end of the long piecees (this makes for three equal sections that are each 30in. X 17 5/16 in).
- Center the window screen on the outside bottom of the frame. Two people are required to stretch it taut and staple it to the frame bottom and sides using a staple gun.
- Center the hardware cloth over the window screen, pull it taut, and staple it to the frame bottom. Nail roofing nails around the frame for added support. Now make a diagonal cut with tin snips at each corner of the hardware cloth. This enables you to fold it up and onto the ends of the frame where it can be stapled and nailed. (It will be difficult to attach the legs properly if the hardware cloth and window screen are folded and bunched on the sides where the legs attach.)
- Build four sturdy legs by attaching each of the 32 ½ in. legs to a 36 in. leg using the
2 ½ in. galvanized wood screws. (see line drawing)
- The table will rest on the shorter piece of each 2-piece leg. Attach the legs, 8 inches in from the four corners, by driving three 2 ½ in. screws through the top of each leg and into the long side of the frame.
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Tips
- Drill pilot holes with an 1/8” drill bit before driving in the galvanized screws.

- Use a wood rasp to clean up rough edges after cutting your wood pieces.
- ¼ in. hardware cloth is more expensive but easier to manipulate.
- Cover the edge of the window screen and hardware cloth on all four sides with some type of molding to prevent fraying and poking hazard from sharp edges.
- Paint the exterior only with latex paint or an acrylic stain.
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Alternative Construction Methods:
- The Salad TableTM can be made any width and length as long as the weight of the growing media, water, and plants can be supported.
- You can substitute 10d galvanized nails for the screws. If you prefer, you can have your lumber yard or store make the required lumber cuts. You can substitute 2 X 6 boards for a deeper growing bed (good for snap beans), or 2 X 8 boards (good for peppers, determinate-type tomatoes, and bush cucumbers.)
- Legs can be made from 4 X 4s (with a 1 ½” X 3 ½” notch cut out to support the frame) or you can set the frame on two sawhorses, or other supports. Attach sturdy casters to the legs to make it mobile!
- You can substitute 4 in. lag bolts for screws for attaching the legs (2 bolts per leg). This allows easy removal of the legs if you need to break down the Salad Table.
- You can eliminate the hardware cloth and just use aluminum window screen for the bottom. Be sure to attach three 1 X 4 boards, each 58” long, over the window screen to prevent the bottom from sagging (see Quick Time movie).

- Hardware cloth bottom with no window screen, you’ll need to cover the bottom of each section with newspaper or a paper grocery bag to prevent the growing media from sifting out.
- You could make the frame with one divider instead of two.
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 |
|
Roll screen over frame
|
Position and staple in place
|
 |
 |
Roll & fit hardware cloth
over screen
|
Secure with galvanized
deck screws
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Building a Salad BoxTM
Materials
- Pine or cedar board (1 x 4) 6 ft. long
- 1 ¼ in. galvanized deck screws
- Aluminum window screening
- ¼ in. hardware cloth
- 3/8 in. staples
- Handles (optional)
Tools you may need: Handsaw, hammer, drill, #2 Phillips screw bits, tape measure, square, tin snips (to cut screening and hardware cloth), staple gun, leather gloves (hardware cloth can poke you a bit).
Directions
- Cut one 6’ pine or cedar board (1 X 4) into four pieces- (2) 15” pieces and (2) 21” pieces. If using pine, ask for “clear” or “#2”; the latter is less expensive. Use a wood rasp to clean up rough edges after cutting your wood pieces.
- Use 1 ¼ in. long galvanized screws to attach one long piece to the two short pieces. Repeat with other long piece. Drill pilot holes with an 1/8” drill bit before driving in the galvanized screws.
- Lay aluminum window screen over the box and cut it so that the window screen is even with the box ends (short pieces) and extends over the edge of each long piece by 3 inches on either side. Staple it tightly to the box bottom.
- Repeat the same procedure with the ¼ in. mesh galvanized hardware cloth, except that you should cut it so that it only extends 2 inches up the sides (long pieces) on each side. Staple it to the bottom and also the sides. Then, fold down the window screen over the hardware cloth edge to make a seam and staple securely.
- Apply an acrylic stain or latex paint to extend the useful life.
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Alternative Construction Methods
- Use finishing nails instead of screws to build the box; or use a combination of the two.
- Add handles or cleats to the ends for easy lifting and moving (the box weighs about 12-15 lbs. when filled with moist growing medium and plants).
- Nail or screw two 21” pieces of wood to the bottom of the box so that the bottom of the box is off the ground.
- Build the box with just window screening (and bottom boards) or just hardware cloth (no bottom boards; cover bottom with newspaper before adding the growing media.)
- Use 1 X 6 wood for a deeper box and greater rooting area. This increases expense and weight but allows crops to grow larger.
- Cover the edge of the window screen and hardware cloth on all four sides of the frame with wood molding, duct tape or other material.
Note: Finished box weighs about 12-15 lbs. when filled with moist growing medium and plants.
Step 2 - Choose a Site and Growing Media
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For more information, contact
Jon Traunfeld
Last updated:
07/1/2009